Acrylic pour painting on furniture is finally checked off of my list! I have had success on a variety of surfaces (paper, rocks, leaves, canvas, tiles, etc.) and I really wanted to cover a piece of furniture with fluid art. My white & copper end table looked like a fun spontaneous painting project one day. After I was finished painting and blending different acrylics on the table, I got the idea to use the same colors to pour on the top.
My biggest mistake on larger pour painting projects is not using enough paint. The top of the end table is 14.5″ x 14.5″ so I decided to use 4 small paper cups filled roughly 1/3 full with paint and black paint with Floetrol to surround them. I flipped the cups onto a piece of plastic, slid & transferred them to the table top, surrounded them with black paint, pulled up the cups, and swiped across the top.
Acrylic Pour Painting on Furniture
- (Clean) White Painted End Table with Copper Leaf Accents
- Artist’s Loft Level 1 Acrylic Paint in Brilliant Blue
- Artist’s Loft Level 1 Metallic Acrylic Paint in Copper
- Daler Rowny Simply Acrylic Gloss Medium
- Jacquard Lumiere Metallic Acrylic Paint in #556 Halo Blue Gold
- Apple Barrel Tropic Orange Matte Acrylic Paint
- Apple Barrel Caribbean Matte Acrylic Paint
- Folk Art Color Shift Purple Flash Acrylic Paint
- Folk Art Brushed Metal Brushed Copper Acrylic Paint
- Apple Barrel Black Gloss Acrylic Paint
- Blue Mountain Silicone Lubricant Spray
- Wood Craft Sticks for mixing
- 4 oz. Plastic Condiment Cups to hold the pour paint & resin
- Paper Cups for the flip & drag
- Plastic Notebook Cover for flipping (you can also use heavy-duty paper, cardboard, etc)
- Paint Sample Cards to swipe over the pour painting
- Frog Tape
- Plastic Table-Cloth (from a Dollar Store)
- Extra Large Flattened Cardboard Box to protect my floor
- Envirotex Lite Pour-On High Gloss Finish Epoxy Resin
- Rust-Oleum Chalked Protective Topcoat in Matte Clear
End Table Painting
I began by painting the entire table blue. I mixed the blue acrylic with gloss medium (70:30) and added a tsp of Lumiere to achieve my base color. The table dried for several hours before I painted on the details. The end table was 75% dry. I mixed the other colors with water before painting them on. The paints were sheered out enough to blend (rather than simply covering the blue) but not completely watery where they would drip & run down the surface.
The color shift & turquoise were painted onto larger areas and the Carribean was only used on small lengths of the details. After adding the paints, I used wet fingers to blend them with the blue. I also rubbed back the paint over areas that had been previously covered with copper leaf.
The table dried for six hours before I poured on the top. I should have let the table dry longer before pour painting. Luckily, the only issue was a couple of tiny bits of paint that pulled up when I removed the Frog Tape.
Pour Painting Prep
Plastic table-cloth was wrapped around the table and taped in place with Frog Tape. I set the table on top of an extra-large flattened cardboard box from moving to protect the floor.
Pour Painting Steps
- I mixed the pour colors in plastic condiment cups. I stirred together roughly 60/40 acrylic paint & floetrol plus added water depending on how thick the paint was. Then I sprayed & mixed in silicone. I press as lightly as I can on the dispenser & add a tiny squirt of silicone.
**I used a very small amount of silicone and did not have to extensively clean the surface before sealing. Large amounts of silicone will require cleaning your surface before sealing to prevent separation & distortion of your sealant.**
- I poured the paints into small paper cups, rotating colors.
- One-by-one the cups were covered with the plastic notebook cover and flipped upside down. I slid the upside down cups off of the cover & transferred them to the top of the end table.
- Black paint (with floetrol & water only) was poured around the cups and spread around the surface of the table with an offset icing spatula.
- After all 4 cups rested for 5 minutes, I dragged them around a bit and then pulled the cups up to reveal puddles of color.
- I gently tilted the table back and forth to move the color around, revealing colorful cells that popped through.
- Last second, I decided to swipe across the top with paint sample cards. I gently pulled across the surface in imperfect lines, wiping off the excess paint between swipes.
- I let the paint dry for 4 hours before removing the paint covered table-cloth.
- Days later I used copper paint to frame the poured top and added copper accents around the piece
- The top of the (leveled) table was sealed with 2 layers of Envirotex Lite. I measured equal parts of resin & hardener (by volume) and poured the hardener into the resin cup, mixing for 2 minutes with a large craft stick. I then poured the liquid into a new cup & mixed an additional minute with a clean craft stick. The resin was immediately poured on top & spread with the craft stick. **When mixing the resin, the mixture turns cloudy and then becomes clear again. There were bubbles in the resin before I poured but they disappeared on their own with time** I let the first layer of resin harden for 24 hours before pouring the second layer.
- Rust-Oleum Chalked Protective Topcoat in Matte Clear was used to seal the rest of the table. I painted it on with a foam brush, applying 2 layers, 8 hours apart.
I am elated at how pretty the table is. My favorite pours that I have done have been on much smaller surfaces. Painting & art are a “beauty is in the eye of the beholder” situation. We are all our own worst critics but I really like how the flip & swipe worked with coordinating colors to the base of the end table! Pour painting should be fun & relaxing but if I had not liked the top, I could have scraped the paint off and poured again.
My vision for pour painting on furniture has come to life. You will probably see a lot of these spontaneous projects pop up as I put off my wall & ceiling chores this winter.