I had mica powders on order when I did my first post of TKB Trading mica swatches. I just couldn’t wait! The TKB site has pictures of the mica powder and how they appear in nail polish & soaps but no swatches on the skin. My new colors are fantastic and just as loved as the first set of swatches. I find it extremely helpful to have pictures of swatches when I am formulating an eye shadow or highlighter color, so here is my second set of TKB Trading Mica Swatches:
TKB Trading Mica Swatches
(Color Shifting Micas, Interference Shades)
Star Bite Collection
Extra bright, small glittery iridescent color additives (100-260 microns) which appear as a white, semi-iridescent powder until rubbed on the skin, or set against a dark color. The size of the particles is large enough to cause eye irritation but they are perfect for highlighters, lip & nail formulations. (Try the Moondust Collection [I have Indu Rose & Crescent Crimson] for a similar effect on the eyes.)
5 Trues Collection
The “true” micas are cosmetic-grade, bright-hued, low-sheen micas which are a blend of FD&C dyes and a mica substrate. The colors are water resistant. True Red/Orange is not eye-safe but the other 4 colors are. All colors work in nail polish and are permitted for use in lip products.
Sparkle Turquoise & Indu Rose
Sparkle Turquoise is a white-appearing mica with a turquoise sparkle shift. Indu Rose is a white-appearing powder that shifts from indigo to purple to red.
Metallic White & Extra Bright
Metallic White is a silver-white, not a true white. Extra Bright is a true white with more sheer pigmentation than Pearl White. Extra Bright has intense glow & sheen perfect for intense highlighters that give the appearance of a dewy sheen.
Oriental Beige, Mermaid’s Gold, Forged Gold, Antique Gold
Oriental Beige is similar to Apricot. It has a metallic sheen & is more of a brown tone while Apricot has intense shimmer with an orange tone.
Ocean Green. Deep Blue
Matte Orange Pop, Copper Fire, Passion Orange, Calliope
MyMix Pink Blush, Be My Valentine
Be My Valentine is much darker in pigmentation than Cotton Candy & is much cooler-toned/purple-leaning. MyMix Pink Blush has great, opaque pigmentation. Pink Blush is a much drier powder than mica because it contains (or may contain): talc, mica, zinc stearate, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, and bismuth oxychloride, so it can benefit from adding a base powder that provides slip to your formula.
Base Powder Demo:
Mica applied by itself will not last long on the eyes/face. Mica needs to be combined with base powders to extend wear, deepen opacity, and improve the application. I was confused on which powders to add & their purpose when I first started creating pressed mica shadows and highlighters. The TKB Trading MyMix Base & Matte Texture Base are blends of base powders, fillers, & opacifiers. I have a file on my computer that is a compilation of descriptions & usage amounts from online reading. Verbal descriptions can be helpful but I am a visual learner, so I used large amounts of 5 different powders to show their impact on a color formula.
I used 3 Tads (3/4 tsp) of pre-mixed color (including MyMix Press Base & C-Smax) and 1 Dash (1/8 tsp) of each powder listed below. I had a surplus of left-over product I saved for this demo. The impact on the final coloring is exaggerated by using a large amount of powder. Using smaller amounts of the base powders won’t affect the color so dramatically.
1. [TKB Trading] Boron Nitride
Truth in Aging explains that Boron Nitride is an optical diffuser with light scattering properties, making it ideal for a soft-focus finish. It provides a glowy, shiny effect with the ability to refract light from the skin, blurring imperfections & creating smoothness. Silky textured with good slip and adhesion, this powder extends the lasting power of a product. Boron Nitride also absorbs oil from the skin, which helps spread pigmentation evenly.
Boron Nitride is water-insoluble so it does not mix well with alcohol for pressing. It works great when pressed dry. Boron Nitride will lighten the final color. **Boron Nitride is different than Boron**
2. [TKB Trading] Pashmica
TKB’s Pashmica pairs sericite mica with natural silica. Pashmica is a cushiony powder that provides a soft-focus, dewy finish. It is oil-absorbent, providing slip to an application and the silica scatters light, blurring fine lines & wrinkles. Pashmica gives a soft glow to shadows & highlighters. Using Pashmica will slightly lighten the final coloring of a product and gives a soft feel to the product. Pashmica lightens/brightens less dramatically than other powders.
3. [TKB Trading Water Dispersible] Titanium Dioxide
The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics lists Titanium Dioxide as a safe cosmetic additive so long as it is not inhaled. Titanium Dioxide is a white, opaque, naturally occurring mineral used for coloring, whitening, and brightening in cosmetics. Titanium Dioxide has strong reflective properties, it brightens color formulations and reduces translucency in the formula. It will lighten the final color and brighten the most. Titanium Dioxide is a dry powder. If used in large percentages, it will benefit from another powder that improves slip.
4. [Making Cosmetics] Wrinkle Blur
Wrinkle Blur is a powder comprised of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer with a silica coating. It claims to mask and blur wrinkles by up to 84%, absorb oil, and to give skin a smooth, silky powdery feel. Dimethicone is silicone with large molecules that glide over the skin. Silicone provides slip & a silky feel. In cosmetics and personal care products, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer functions as a silicone thickener/emulsifier. The silica acts as an anti-caking agent & oil-absorbent. Silica’s spherical particles increase the spreadability of a product.
Dimethicone is a water-soluble silicone. This powder affects the feel of the product, not the color. The powder adds an extra smooth, silky feel to the product.
5. [Making Cosmetics] Magnesium Stearate
Magnesium Stearate is an ester of Magnesium & Stearic Acid which functions as a texturizer, opacifier, and a non-gelling thickener. It enhances slip and silkiness with its mild emulsifying properties. Magnesium Stearate slightly lightened the color formula & added softness to the product.
I hope being able to see swatches of the stand-alone colors & additive powders helps you as much as it helps me. I have never pressed a mica by itself and I always combine several shades to get the depth & tone I am visualizing.